Mezcal

Mezcal is the agave spirit tequila grew out of. Tequila must be made from blue agave in and around Jalisco; mezcal can be made from dozens of agave varieties, most of it in Oaxaca, and the agave hearts are traditionally cooked in earthen pit ovens, which is where the smoke comes from. Joven is unaged and the purest expression of the plant; reposado has rested in wood.

Start with an espadín, the most planted agave: Monte Alban is the entry point, Del Maguey Vida the bar staple, and Mezcal Amores Espadín, The Lost Explorer Espadín, Creyente and Casamigos Joven sit a step up. Ojo de Tigre comes as a joven and a reposado.

For wild and rarer agaves, Mezcal Amores Cupreata, Derrumbes Michoacán, Koch Mexicano and Bozal's Tepeztate and Cuishe show how different one spirit can taste. Bozal Pechuga is distilled a third time with fruit and spices. At the top sits Clase Azul Durango, the collector's bottle.

Most bottles are 70cl at 40% to 47%. Sip mezcal neat at room temperature, or swap it for tequila in a margarita or paloma.