Spirited Series: Agave, Ancestry, and the Spirit of Mexico

Before mezcal became the darling of mixologists and tequila filled shot glasses across the world, these agave spirits were part of something far older and far deeper: ritual, survival, and cultural identity. In this edition of the Spirited Series, we’re going back—way back—to the ancestral roots of Mexico’s most iconic spirits, spotlighting the people and places that keep these traditions alive.

🌵 The Sacred Agave

To understand tequila and mezcal, you first have to understand agave. This spiky, dramatic-looking plant has been central to Mesoamerican life for thousands of years. For the Aztec, Zapotec, Mixtec, and other Indigenous peoples, agave wasn’t just a crop—it was a source of food, shelter, fuel, clothing, and spiritual connection. Fermented agave sap, known as pulque, was consumed during sacred rituals and reserved for priests, warriors, and the elderly. Drunkenness wasn’t taken lightly; pulque was seen as a divine substance that brought people closer to the gods.

🏺 From Pulque to Distillation

Everything changed in the 1500s with the arrival of Spanish colonisers, who brought copper stills and a thirst for brandy. But grapes didn’t grow well in the Mexican climate. Enter the agave. Locals began distilling their fermented agave beverages using Spanish equipment—and thus, mezcal was born. This early mezcal was rustic, potent, and deeply regional, crafted using traditional techniques passed down through generations.

🔥 The Spirit of Mezcal

Today, mezcal is most famously produced in Oaxaca, though it’s also made in other Mexican states like Durango, Guerrero, and Michoacán. At its core, mezcal is still an artisanal product. The process begins with harvesting mature agave plants—many of which take between 7 and 25 years to reach maturity. The hearts, or piñas, are slow-roasted in underground pits lined with volcanic rock, then crushed by hand or with a tahona (a massive stone wheel pulled by a donkey or horse). The crushed agave is left to ferment in open-air wooden vats, capturing wild yeasts and the unique flavour of the region. Finally, it’s distilled—often in small copper or clay stills.

Mezcal is as much about terroir and tradition as it is about flavour. Each batch is distinct. Labels often include the type of agave used, the village of origin, and the name of the mezcalero—the master distiller whose craftsmanship gives each bottle its soul. It’s smoky, earthy, complex, and designed to be sipped slowly. In Oaxaca, mezcal isn’t just a drink—it’s served at weddings, funerals, and everything in between. It’s a symbol of welcome, remembrance, and respect.

🌞 The Rise of Tequila

While mezcal remained small-scale and regional, a more refined version of agave distillation began to emerge in the highlands and valleys of Jalisco, particularly around the town of Tequila. Unlike mezcal, which can be made from over 30 varieties of agave, tequila can only be made from one: blue Weber agave. It must also be produced within designated regions—primarily Jalisco, and parts of Guanajuato, Nayarit, Michoacán, and Tamaulipas.

Tequila production became increasingly industrialised in the 1800s, with large distilleries refining the process for consistency and export. The blue agave piñas are typically steamed in large ovens rather than roasted underground, which gives tequila a cleaner, brighter, and slightly sweeter profile compared to mezcal. After cooking, the agave is shredded, fermented in stainless steel tanks, and double distilled—resulting in the spirit we know today.

But don’t be fooled into thinking tequila is all glitz and gimmicks. Behind every premium bottle are the jimadores, skilled field workers who harvest agave by hand with a sharp tool called a coa. It’s demanding, physically intense work that requires deep knowledge of agave cycles and timing. In many cases, these workers have learned the craft from their fathers and grandfathers before them.

🌎 Culture in Every Bottle

Tequila and mezcal have both become global symbols of Mexican identity, but their cultural roles remain distinct. Mezcal is the soulful storyteller—rooted in Indigenous knowledge, fiercely local, and handmade in small batches. It carries the imprint of the land, the weather, and the family who made it. Drinking mezcal isn’t about rushing through shots—it’s about sharing stories, paying respect, and tasting a place.

Tequila, on the other hand, has evolved into Mexico’s most recognised spirit on the world stage. Whether it’s sipped neat, mixed into a margarita, or used to toast a celebration, good tequila still reflects the heart of Jalisco. The best bottles maintain a deep connection to the land and the people who produce them—even as they scale up for global distribution.

🥃 Drink With Intention

So next time you order a mezcal negroni or pour yourself a tequila on the rocks, take a moment. Think about the agave that took years to grow. The farmers who cut each piña by hand. The families who’ve guarded distilling traditions for centuries. These aren’t just spirits—they’re living histories. Sacred plants turned into liquid culture. They deserve more than a salt rim and a lime wedge.

Cheers to drinking with knowledge. Cheers to Mexico.